Knitting Yarn Calculator
Calculate how much yarn you need for your knitting project.
Get skeins needed and total yardage for scarves, sweaters, blankets, hats, and socks.
Yarn quantity estimation starts from the project and its size, then adjusts for how thick the yarn is. Thick yarn covers the same area in far less length, which is why a pattern’s yardage is meaningless until you know what weight it was written for.
Yardage by project (worsted weight, medium size)
| Project | Small | Medium | Large |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scarf | 225 yd | 280 yd | 390 yd |
| Hat | 100 yd | 125 yd | 160 yd |
| Socks (pair) | 195 yd | 260 yd | 295 yd |
| Sweater | 975 yd | 1,300 yd | 1,800 yd |
| Blanket | 950 yd | 1,600 yd | 2,650 yd |
The medium column is the shared one. Those five figures are the same numbers the yarn yardage calculator and the knitting estimator work from, so a worsted sweater comes to 1,300 yards on all three. The socks row is the one that moved most: 400 yards is a fingering figure and it had been sitting in a worsted column.
Adjusting for yarn weight
Everything above is worsted. To move to another weight, multiply:
| Yarn weight | Multiplier | Typical yards per 100 g | Sweater weight at that yarn |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fingering / lace | 1.45× | 400 | 475 g |
| DK / sport | 1.15× | 250 | 600 g |
| Worsted / Aran | 1.0× | 200 | 650 g |
| Bulky | 0.77× | 130 | 769 g |
| Super bulky | 0.55× | 80 | 890 g |
That last column is the one worth reading twice, because this page used to claim the opposite. The old multipliers were the yards-per-100g figures divided by worsted’s, on the argument that the same garment in the same fibre must hold the same wool however thick the yarn, so the two columns would cancel and the grams would come out flat.
They do not cancel. Published per-size yardage puts a medium pullover at 1,900 yards in fingering and 1,300 in worsted, a ratio of 1.46 rather than 2.2, and the finished garment runs from about 475 g in fingering to 769 g in bulky. That is a 62% spread, and the reason is simple once you see it: a thicker yarn worked at its own proper gauge makes a thicker, denser, warmer cloth. Same measurements, different fabric. A chunky sweater really is a heavier thing to pick up than a sock-weight one.
Grams still tell you what to buy, and yards still only make sense within one weight. What has changed is that you cannot read the grams off the yardage without knowing which yarn you picked.
Balls needed
Balls = Total yards ÷ yards per ball, rounded up
Yards per ball is printed on the label and varies enormously, so it is an input above rather than an assumption. Round up, always, and buy from a single dye lot.
Knitting versus crochet
Crochet uses roughly 25–30% more yarn than knitting for the same finished piece, because crochet stitches are taller and each one consumes more yarn. If you are converting a pattern between the two, the crochet yarn calculator carries the same projects with that adjustment already applied.
Two things that shift these numbers
Gauge. These figures assume you hit the pattern’s stated gauge. Knit tighter and you pack more stitches into the same area, using more yarn; knit looser and you use less. A gauge off by 10% moves the yarn requirement by about the same amount, which on a blanket is a whole ball.
Stitch pattern. Cables pull the fabric in and eat 20–35% more yarn than plain stockinette. Stranded colorwork carries both yarns across every row, so budget 20–30% extra. Lace goes the other way: all those yarn-overs make fabric out of holes, so it runs 5–15% under.
How we build and check this calculator
This calculator runs entirely in your browser, so the numbers you enter stay on your device. The math behind it is written by hand and tested against worked examples and standard references before the page goes live.
SuperGlobalCalculator is independently built and maintained. See how we build and verify our calculators.
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